Norwich
July 2026
More photos here

 

Drawing us to Norwich this month are two exhibitions. At the Sainsbury Centre, a gallery usually much too modern for me, is one called Living by the Rule: Contemporary meets Medieval. There's modern art, inspired by the Rule of the Benedictine order, but medieval artefacts and manuscripts too, inclusding a few famous psalters. And at the Hungate Centre there is an exhibition devoted to angel ceilings. It actually finishes the day before we arrive, but when I enquired if it might be extended I was told it was due to be taken down on the evening of our arrival and if we made it in the afternoon we could have a last-minute exclusive visit. Very helpful and hopeful!

Monday 13th
The 10.30 train from Liverpool Street was busy but not rammed and the fruit cake slice from the snack bar is now gluten- and dairy-free. We got in too early to check in at the Premier Inn, but left our bags and made for Bread Source. The fondly-remembered hummus roll from last year was not to be had, but the quinoa-burger thing with beetroot was well tasty, and the rhubarb soda was piquant too. The unusually helpful woman at St Peter Hungate was better than her word - we got a good look around and plenty of inside gen. The painted saint panel retrieved from a demolished screen and the medieval window are also worth a look. We'll be back! A short stop on the way back through the Cathedral shop got us some biscuits and a Budge (the Cathedral cat) badge, before checking in and having a rest.

In the evening we did the classic anti-clockwise river walk, passing the Cow Tower, before heading in around the castle to a pizzeria called Donnelli's, recommended by the chap on reception in our hotel. The pizza (with onion, rocket and fresh tomatoes) was excellent, which made the fact that the gelato was, in fact, merely Mr Whippy, and so not palatable, doubly disappointing.

Tuesday 14th
The Premier Inn breakfast was as reliable and unsurprising as ever. I headed through town to the big Earlham cemetery, stopping off to get cool in the very Victorian RC cathedral on the way. I had a map to find the common graves (so no headstones) of three of my 19th century ancestors. I found them, more or less, as the graves within the sections were not clearly labelled. The map also helped me find older and more interesting areas. I stopped of at a different branch of Bread Source for the same lunch as yesterday. I aked if the had any crisps but was told no, with the added comment ‘I wish we did!’

In the evening our walk took us into the Cathedral around evensong time and featured a rare sighting of Budge, the famous cathedral cat, who strolled past us and curled up on a kneeler and let me scritch his head!

Our evening meal in the hotel restaurant was, for me, tomato soup and a spicy veggie burger. My beer was a Sol, which brew was a bit of a thing in the 80s, and pleasantly citrusy after all this time.

Wednesday 15th
This morning we caught the bus to the University of East Anglia, where the Sainsbury Gallery is, which has on an exhibition about the Benedictine Rule. The exhibition features medieval illuminated manuscripts and modern art inspired by monastic living and poverty. Guess what I was here for. The manuscripts were not many but they did not disappoint - they included the Macclesfield Psalter - and the other medieval stuff had its moments too.
I should mention the historic importance of the bus journey, though. My Freedom Pass covers all public transport in London, and also works on buses country-wide, but this morning was the first time I'd used it in distant parts. The second time got me back into Norwich - Jane stayed for some more modern art - to buy a book from the Norwich Museum shop an have a good long exchange of views and witticisms with the women on the counter. Lunch was taken back to the hotel and was followed by a rest.

In the evening we repeated the river walk and superior pizza experience of Monday. We got back to the hotel, passing pubs with queues outside, safely before the World Cup semi final (defeat) madness kicked off.

Thursday 16th
This morning I woke up to ripples of light on my bedroom ceiling reflected off the river. After breakfast, following a pile up of minor needs, we decided to come home a day early. After a last biscuit-buying visit to the Cathedral we caught the 11.30 train and were home in time for a late lunch. The invoice from the Premier Inn came later in the afternoon and revealed that they’d deducted the cost of the last day from our bill, which was very fair, we thought.









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