Jeff
in Boston & New York
14th March 2012 |
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Leaving the house in plenty of time this morning I find the Northern Line out of action northbound due to a 'person under a train' at the Oval. Great. So I walk to Balham to try the overground and find hoards of people not being let onto platforms that are too crowded. So I walk back to Tooting to maybe get a bus to Clapham Junction to attempt getting the overground to Victoria there, but find that the Northern Line is now back working. I'm almost an hour late by now, but just about make it - finally getting to the gate with 5 minutes to spare. The flight goes fine. I get my veggie meal (before everyone else!) of mushroom pasta, and it ain't bad. There's a salad with it, and a lemon posset for afters, which was semi-edible, so I ate half of it. And just before we get to Boston there was a hummus sandwich and the smallest box of raisins you've ever seen. I'm not used to 6 hour flights, this being only my second time outside Europe, but time passed, with music and a fine novel on the Kindle (Bridge of Sighs by Richard Russo). Passport control took ages, what with everyone's fingerprints being taken electronically and faces being photographed. Still my guy was chummy, we even had a chat about when the clocks go forward in the UK. They just have here, much to the confusion of the crew on my flight. Finding the courtesy bus to the underground station was not simple, and the stop was deserted and the bus when it came oddly sparsely used, with maybe one other person with a suitcase. The underground journey went pretty smooth, with me amazed, as I had been in Nashville in 98, how public transport is used mostly by the poor and immigrants over here. In London it's far more egalitarian. My walk from the Back Bay station to my hotel - The Colonnade - took me past much road chaos, many generator lorries and over road junctions with gesturing policemen rather than traffic lights, which seemed sweet. But of course there had been a major power outage last night, following an explosion. (It was a scary big one according to a woman I spoke to in the hotel lift later. She lived nearby but had just checked in for a shower and other electrical luxuries.) Anyway, my check-in went smoothly, but for the fact that the room I was given was in a state of unmadeup chaos. Sigh. I went back downstairs for profuse apologies and a new room. Which was fine, except for the pair of manic idiots shouting in the next room. Sigh. Restless, in both senses of the word, I went out for a walk, passing more thrumming generator lorries than I would've thought existed in the whole country. I came back with a cream-cheese poppy-seed bagel and have sat and typed this, and I need my bed. It's 8.30 here now, but for me it's half past midnight. There's constant drilling nearby, which is maybe to do with the power thing. Good job I brought my earplugs. All in all a bit too much of a day, I have hopes for a calmer tomorrow, with the consolation of art. |
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15th March 2012 |
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Having gotten off to sleep around 9.00 last night I expected to wake up at some godforsaken hour, which I did, around 4.30, but then I went back to sleep until just before 8.00 - that's 11 hours sleep! OK, I'll lay off the time difference stuff now. The sound of pneumatic drills (known locally as jack-hammers - I'm learning a lot from conversations in the hotel lift) opposite was replaced before my middle-of-the-night wakeup by the thrumming of three generator lorries, but there does seem to be some return to electrical normality with street lights and stuff. Funny hotel stuff - upon entering my room yesterday the bed had upon it four plump pillows, two (what look like) sofa cushions and two small cushions. They took up half of the (large) bed! I've stuffed most of this excessive cushionage into the wardrobe. More self-consciously wacky is the rubber duck in the bathroom - a feature of the hotel it seems. What isn't a feature of the hotel is breakfast, other than expensive room service. So, having availed myself of a bracing cup from the coffee machine in my room I went off out in search a life-giving morning pastries. But I'd reckoned without the ongoing effect of the outage. I walked around the big posh malls opposite my hotel, one of which even houses a Cheesecake Factory, a chain on my list of places to try. But nothing was open. On my walk I may have found the source of the problem (see right) but I was almost at the Museum of Fine Art, which is on the way to the Isabella Stewart Gardner palazzo I was heading for, before I found an Au Bon Pain open and serving coffee and (hooray) cinnamon buns.
I went out for a walk in towards the centre and confirmed my
increasing fondness for Boston. The city seem not to know what it is to
build boringly. Even new housing seems to be imitating nice old, mostly
redbrick, buildings. My walk took me along Commonwealth Avenue,* which is
strung with said nice houses, to the Public Garden and down Charles
Street, which is a bit 'heritage style', but very pretty. I looped back
through tower blocks and finally found some junk food. The Burger King
here does a veggie burger, and it's a tasty one! I dealt with some coin
confusion here by mentioning the oddness of having dollar notes and dollar
coins, but the serving person showed little interest in my fascinating
observation about how UK five pound notes are famously falling to bits
with use whereas over here there are still one dollar notes worth about an
eighth of a fiver. Oh well. My faith in human interest in the important
things was revived, however, by the young woman in the wood-panelled bakers
I bought a coconut macaroon from. Not only did
she share my note/coin amazement, but told me how the coins are not
popular here and are only really used by the subway company as change from
their ticket machines, which is where I'd got all mine! It turned out
she'd stayed in Victoria in London last year, so we compared, until other
customers came.
*Click
here, and then on any of the houses listed, to see what I mean. |
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16th March 2012 |
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The wake up time this morning was a
back-to-pattern 8.00 and the wake-up juice, bought yesterday, was
Nantucket Nectars Red Plum. I figured out how to use the TV
yesterday - there's a full keyboard remote and an ordinary remote but to
turn it on you, um, press the switch on the side. The minimalist shower
tap defeated me though - I can get water but hotness seems impossible. But
it might be a power outage thing, as I've heard dark mutterings in the
lift about frozen heads, which now makes sense. This morning's outage
bulletin - still more NSTAR trucks than you can count. I counted 26 when I
got up, but there's fewer now. And lots of activity around yesterday's
smoke-belching manhole.
I popped into the Apple store near my hotel on my way back to the hotel, to buy myself one of the new iPads which went on sale today, as you do. No long queues, but a weird system for buying where you wait in a short line to tell a groovy guy what you want, he gets a piece of card out of his filing box relating to your colour and capacity choice, passes it to another groovy guy who tries to get you to buy accessories and insurance and then goes and gets what you want and swipes your credit card into a handheld gadget, which then tells him your card's been refused, so you try another, which works, thankfully. Then I had to write a signature on the screen of his gadget with my fingertip. Not the kind of fuss you need when you've yet to buy your lunch bagel - cream cheese and cucumber on poppy seed. It turned out I should have told my credit card company that I was having a holiday abroad. Pshaw!
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In the evening I went to the Amtrak station to make sure I'd know
where I was going to get my train to New York in the morning. The Amtrak
entrance is a bit tucked away but I asked at an info window, got
directed to the Amtrak window (duh!) and got my actual ticket printed out
by the nice ladies scanning in the barcode on my printout and pointed
towards the platform entrance. Good. Then a final walk around some Boston
streets. I headed roughly towards the park as I can get my bearings from
there. I found myself in what I later found out is Washington Street,
which seemed a buzzy sort of mixed shopping street, closing up slowly. I
spotted a MacDonald's and decided it was filet-o-fish time. Sitting down
with my usual, plus a pineapple and mango smoothie, it became apparent
that I was somewhat outside the Back Bay art gallery and heritage shopping
milieu. There was the sign saying the restrooms were only for clients, the
sign saying 'No loitering - 20 minutes maximum', the groups that looked a
bit camped out and the guy with no food but about some mysterious business
involving ... tobaccoey stuff and trips to the bins. I ate quite quickly
(leaving most of the smoothie which was not nice and very icey) and headed
towards the park. Further along Washington Street there were quite of lot
of beggars and clutches of youth, but then it was suddenly all swanky
hotels and big cars. Weirdly mixed area, or what? Also steaming manhole
covers - I'd only ever seen them in photos and film, but they have them
here in real life. |
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17th March 2012 |
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To New York today. I paid my Boston bill, had a last chat about the outage, got a plaster for my mysteriously bleeding finger, and a complementary Colonnade Hotel rubber duck, and made for the Back Bay station for the 9.45 to Washington. The platform was a bit dingy and indicator-free but the train turned up promptly and we were zipping through cute Connecticut towns in no time, and in New York in four hours. Negotiating the subway was a bit daunting, mainly due to my confusion at which way was uptown and which downtown. It was very crowded and I also soon encountered the smelliest tramp (street person?) I'd ever had the displeasure of getting my nose near, ever; and I used to work in a Hackney reference library. Still I got where I needed to go, through the green-clad St. Patrick's Day hoards, some of whom were even more confused than me, and a lot of whom seemed to be Latino. I found my hotel, The Mark, after some street- number confusion and polite enquiring. Check-in was smooth and friendly and I was in my room in no time. And flipping swish it is too. To illustrate - the palatial bath and shower room has a little remote on the marble-topped double sink, which puzzled me, and there's an odd dark square in the big mirror over the sink. Turns out there's a TV built into the mirror, of course. (I've put some more photos on the facebook page.) There's also a drawer over the minibar full of chocolate and sweets, but as this includes the $6 Kit-Kat I'll be resisting I think. I have the TV on while I'm typing this and flipping blasély through the many bland-o channels I just found a channel called Animal Planet, which has an all-new episode of Too Cute - Kittens tonight, in HD. Fluff-y!
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18th March 2012 |
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To the MET today, and if a person would be hard pressed to do the MFA in Boston justice in one day then this place is just, well, you'd have to, well it's very very big, OK? (I got to the museum before I could find breakfast, so got a cinnamon and raisin pretzel from a van outside. I didn't know such things existed, but now I do I'm very glad.) I was here today as it was the last day of the Renaissance Portraits exhibition. I'd paid online so I had to get my printed-out barcode scanned in to get my ticket, which is actually a tin badge, then I checked in my bag and coat and went to get my audioguide which I'd also paid for in advance so I had to get another print-out scanned in, except it was the same print-our I'd just had scanned in which the woman had returned to me, so the print-out for the audioguide was still in my bag. Sigh. back to the cloakroom and then back to the audioguide desk, and up to the exhibition. Trying my audioguide I find the headphone connect is faulty so the helpful man's voice is whizzing around inside my head. I go get another one - the same machine does for special exhibitions and the permanent collection, which is neat. The exhibition was a treat. It's in the combinations, mostly. Pairs of works depicting the same person and/or painted by the same artist are hung together most fruitfully. It's divided into Florence, then the princedoms and then Venice. The men were mostly painted outdoors and the women indoors and the transition from silhouettes to more face-on representations signals the move from commemorative to personal works. There were usually at least two famous works in each room and all the big names were featured. I then made a start on the European rooms. I managed the renaissance to Vermeer without too much wilting. Highlights of the renaissance included a huge removed fresco of St Christopher by Ghirlandaio and a Venus and Cupid by Lotto, with Cupid grinning smugly as he manages to pee perfectly through a circular wreath. They have five Vermeers here, which is a lot out of the thirty-four there are, and there's three at the Frick, which I'm planning for Tuesday. But today, by the time I'd reached the 18th Century I was drooping. I wandered accidentally into the American r0om settings, created to evoke different periods, oozing classical, nouveau and deco goodness and became truly smitten with the lovely woody Frank Lloyd Wright room. But I'd had enough.
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19th March 2012 |
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Today I'm off to the Museum of Modern Art, not to see modern art, of course, but an exhibition of photographs by Atget, a big fave of mine. My choices are limited as all the museums here seem to close on Monday, and the Whitney, which has lots of Edward Hoppers (and I DO like him) is closed Monday and Tuesday. And I've just discovered that it's very near my hotel. Anyway, the MOMA. Another big place, and very popular, it seems - the joint was sure busy. I made straight for the Atget exhibition. It was one biggish room, with smallish numbers of people. Not tons of photos, but enough to be a treat, and there was a joy in the (that word again) juxtaposition. The photos had been arranged thematically so that, for instance, all the courtyards went along one wall. The courtyards are amongst my most favourites, and it was good to see (I had wondered) that there is at least one with cats in it. The MOMA, through the agency of Bernice Abbott, has, like all the Atgets there is, so to come here and not see some would've been bonkers, but more would've been even better. I went and looked at some of the other art, and even liked some of it. I was especially chuffed to go see Andrew Wyeth's Christina's World which I've had a warm spot for since having to concoct a story about it in an 'O' level school exam. I also liked one by Martin Wong, an Edward Hopper and even Braque's Bach. Also good to see a couple of Frida Carlo's in the flesh. Considering that this place is Atget central the lack of books about him and postcards (only two and both boring) in the shop was disappointing; made criminally so by the number of books about Banksy. So I bought a snazzy MOMA contact lens case and left. I found a deli, ordered two cream cheese and cucumber bagels, and was duly impressed. I walked down to Times Square after, just so I could say I'd been, and was somewhat overwhelmed. The place is just a senses-bashing overload of hoardings and huge screens and hawkers and I stood it for about five minutes. Even more stunning was spotting, just before I got back to Central Park, a branch of Grom - Venice in New York! So I found myself sauntering back to my hotel through Central Park with a pear sorbet and cinnamon cornet. And I should add that having had to wear a coat and a scarf, and still feel cold, last week in Boston it's weird that it's now short-sleeved shirt weather here in New York.
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20th March 2012 |
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To the Frick this morning, which may sound like a polite swear-word, but which has more Vermeers than you can shake a fricking stick at. But breakfast first, and so it's coffee and a pistachio and cardamom muffinette in a place called Joe. The mini muffin was verily a flavour sensation. The Frick Collection was put together by a self-made coke baron from Pennsylvania, who had to leave his home town after his use of bully boys to violently break up a major strike made him oddly unpopular. Still, using your millions to buy major art to be made into a museum after your death...he can't have been all bad I suppose. The key word here, yet again, is juxtaposition - the rooms are gleefully fine mixes of periods and artists. One room has Holbein portraits of Thomas More and Thomas Cromwell glaring at each other either side of the fireplace, with Bellini's wonderful St. Francis in the Desert on the wall opposite, itself hung between two artfully contrasting portraits by Titian, one of a comely young man and the other of a crusty-looking Aretino in rust-coloured robes. The rooms are mostly a bit more themed, and overall we're talking a tendency towards 18th Century fluffiness - Gainsborough, Boucher, Watteau, Fragonard, Greuze ... you get the picture? But there's much more than this, including some fine bits of early renaissance altarpieces bought by his daughter. Frick's will dictates that nothing bought during his lifetime can be loaned, which is why the three paintings by Vermeer here were not in the big Vermeer show in The Hague a few years back. These are displayed almost casually in two places, but are three of his best. If the eccentricity of the Isabella Stewart Gardner made it America's Sir John Soane Museum, the French-influenced decor and major works make this the Wallace Collection of New York. A good, and free, audio guide too. I left and crossed the road into Central Park with lunch on my mind and was accosted by an ex-reader at the library where I used to work, who knew my name and was mates with one of my library colleagues' wife. Blimey! Two cream-cheese bagels bought, plus an apple and cinnamon muffin, it was back to the hotel for some resting.
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A walk through Central Park after the time
of resting, Very Springy. I later found a superior burger place which
surprisingly also did a very superior veggie burger. Home tomorrow.
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21st March 2012 |
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At a bit of a loose end this morning as I hadn't planned anything due to having forgotten how late my flight was (7.35pm) and the resulting time available. Needing to vacate my room by midday (or pay an extra half of the day rate if I wanted to stay in the room until 3.00!) I vacated and left my bag at the hotel and went for a last walk. After a coffee and a cinnamon doughnut I decided on a semi-shopping walk down to Grand Central Station and then across to the United Nations building, and back. I say semi-shopping because my case was already so full of gallery catalogues any weighty purchases were out of the question. So having not been able to check in online and being of the worrying tendency I ended up heading to JFK on the subway far too early, but had a good long read in the lounge, to say the least. The flight went fine - aisle seat, empty seat between me and the other person, some good sitcoms to watch, and quite tasty veggie meals. The weird thing was because I'd stipulated veggie I got my breakfast before everyone else (like the proper meal just after we took off) and mine was orange juice, a fruit salad and a mini banana bread. I was wondering what sort of meat-based breakfast the carnivores were gonna get, but they just got a lemon and orange muffin! Take that, merciless munchers of defenceless fluffy animals! All the other stuff and the tube home went fine. A bit of disorientation on coming out of Tooting Bec tube - all the buildings seemed too low and there was too much sky. Most odd. As I type this I've had no sleep for 20-odd hours and am feeling more than a bit zonked. And why is it days when you feel like this and just want to go to Tesco's for some bread and coffee, and come back and have some lunch and sleep, are the days you get stopped coming up the street to your house and told you've got to stand around and wait while a police dog sniffs around the road. |
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