Saturday 24th October
It's been seven years since
my last (and first) trip to Berlin. I made a Berlin
page back then, which has unfortunately stagnated a bit, due to a lack
of visits, amongst other reasons. No special exhibitions are prompting
this visit, just my current 'things' for the Flemish primitives
(well-represented in the Gemäldegalerie) and Caspar David Friedrich. This is my 10th trip this year,
which might be a record that will remain unbroken, as this
rate seemed to be overdoing it a bit, especially around the peak in the Spring, with
only weeks between flights.
A 1.15 flight today, from Heathrow so a longer journey, on three tube
lines, than with Gatwick, on the overground train. But enough with the
tedious home-turf travel details... At Tegel airport you turn left out of
the customs and eventually reach a patch of bus stops. There are a few
choices, but ours was the TXL JetExpressBus to Alexanderplatz. In
comparison with the hoop-jumping of various types required by Italian bus
companies it was refreshing just buying a ticket from a
conductor. We got off at the Unter den Linden/Friedrichstraße stop and
made our way down Friedrichstraße to the Westin Grand, booked at the
recommendation of a tame art-history-tour tsar of my acquaintance. It
turned out to be a mighty ritzy joint. The room is a good size,
well-appointed*, quiet and with a fine view out the window over a large
autumnal garden. On the (considerable) downside the WiFi is not free, and
is €15
per day. I can't remember the last time I was asked to pay for hotel WiFi.
And €15!?
They're having a laugh. Also the breakfast is extra and costs €32.
Each. Amazeballs!
After unpacking we did a quick recce of the area to find likely places for
breakfast. We soon found ourselves in the lovable column-fest of
Gendarmenmarket and trying a restaurant called Amici, which turned out to
be a real find. Jane's fine fresh mozzarella and rocket salad starter had
a pot of very superior pesto, my cream of tomato soup was darn near
perfect, and the pizzas just right in the chewy/crispy department. Add some
good light panna cotta and strong beverages and you've got two happy
travellers slowly strolling around the peaceful streets of central Berlin
and heading for an early night.
*The highlights being the poddy coffee machine, the logical light
switches, the complementary bath robe and slippers, provision of a face flannel and
a bottle of water (every day). Also green soap shaped like a leaf.
Sunday 25th October
To Charlottenburg, involving
a walk to the Friedrichstraße S-Bahn station that would, we hoped, provide
a breakfast venue. And a little way up Unter den Linden we found a little
place doing fruhstucks where orange juice, croissants and jam, yoghurt and
fruit, and tea and coffee could be had for €20
for the two of us.
Charlottenburg Palace and gardens was a treat, but a confusing one. One
ticket gets you in everywhere, but it's not immediately obvious, or
clearly explained, where everywhere is. The are two entrances into the
main palace, each of which gives access to a different sequence of rooms,
and each sequence ends in an exit which is a stout closed door with a
handle and no sign. The new pavilion in the gardens is a big draw, being
an unglitzy but grand little building by Schinkel containing paintings by
Caspar David Friedrich, but it isn't obvious how to get in, or that your
ticket to the palace covers entrance here. The palace itself was as full
of gilt plasterwork, mirrors, portraits of people in wigs and Wattau
paintings as you'd imagine, but not too overpowering and on the whole
likeable and tastefully done. With some landscape paintings too.
Impressive displays of autumn colours in the gardens also.
The orangery cafe had tasty lunches, if overworked staff. Here I
discovered the pleasure of flame cake, a German take on pizza. Also new
and delightful was weissbier wackily flavoured with grapefruit. And the
almond pastry bought from a takeaway place in the Friedrichstraße station was
delightfully marzipany.
In the evening on our stroll, taken in the dark due to the time of year,
we succeeded, where we'd failed last night, in finding the Fassbender and
Rauch chocolate shop. It's big, and had come to my attention when Googling
"marzipan Berlin". I bought a packet of toasted shapes, a bag of little
potatoes and a small bar covered in dark chocolate. We'll see. Looking for
an Indian veggie restaurant up by the Brandenberg Gate we found it, but
then found a more likely looking place called the Bombay Spice and struck
very lucky. And spicy.
Monday 26th October
We breakfasted at Brotzeit,
a more trendy and glassy place amongst car showrooms on the corner of
Unter den Linden and Friedrichstraße this morning - an almond croissant
for me and slices of dark bread with cheese for Jane. Then up to the
tourist office to get our three-day museum passes. Not much opens on
Monday so we'd decided on the Nikolaikirche, Berlin's oldest church,
rebuilt after bombing and now a museum, and open on Monday. To get there
we walked down Unter den Linden onto the museum island and right. The
whole length of these roads down to
Alexanderplatz is one long stretch of barriers, road digging, cranes,
pipes and building work. Not a photo-worthy vista in any direction
was to be had unspoiled. The area around the Nikolaikirche is called
Nikolaiviertel. An effort has been made to make it as medieval and quirky
as it once was, but it's still more 20th than 14th century. Inside the
church is clean and airy, but not very churchy. Lots of new paint and old
bits of stones but not much atmosphere. Outside after we found a tea shop
called TeaGschwendner, with an impressive range of flavours of redbush -
twenty-three in fact. I chose three with cinnamon in common - plum
pudding, an orange and clove one, and one with almond and cardamom. The
cold, if sunny, weather here had caused me to regret not bringing a scarf and so a shop
behind the church selling nothing else was seemingly heaven sent. A
tasteful short small-checked one was found there for me and
bought, from a bewildering selection. Looping back via Alexanderplatz
brought us near the Marienkirche, a much more pleasing and churchy
experience, with more colour and art. And wall paintings even.
Returning back along the Unter den Linden building site (see below
right), lunch was taken
where we'd had breakfast yesterday, and was a flame cake like I'd had at Charlottenburg only nicer, with tomato and without spinach.
Having decided that the hotel's room WiFi charges were a rip-off I thought
that I could maybe use the free service in the lobby to put some photos up
on Facebook this evening, but no, the connection was so
slow/bad/limited(?) that even this could not be achieved.
You might remember that I mentioned a few days ago that the soap in the
bathroom here was green and leaf-shaped. Nothing too contentious or
redolent of madness there, you'd think, but tonight I noticed that it's
now pale blue. There are greeny tinges to suggest that it's gradually
changing colour, but it's worrying nonetheless, if probably not a mental
health issue.
Tuesday 27th October
After breakfast at Brotzeit
again Jane and I went separate ways - she to look at modern rubb ... art and me
to the Gemäldegalerie. The first few rooms are German and only really get
good with Cranach, including a very Boschy triptych and two of his
sly-looking small-bosomed Venuses. A disappointing lack of Dürer
goodness here, but then comes room IV - another of my favourite gallery
rooms of the year. It has more Rogier van der Weydens than you'll see
elsewhere in one place, including the Miraflores and
Middelburger altarpieces, the latter cunningly has a workshop version
of its left-hand wing hung to its left. There are eight by Rogier here, of
which just three are workshop. A disappointingly ordinary van Eyck here,
but room 4 next door has one of his best in the Madonna in the Church,
and a pair of good portraits, next to Petrus Christus's striking
Portrait of a Young Woman, his only portrait of a female, according to
the audio guide. (The sequence of smaller rooms with Arabic numerals runs
parallel to the main Roman numeral ones, but I couldn't discover why.
Lesser works? Smaller ones?) Room V has a couple of mediocre Memlings, but
two very different, and very wonderful, Adorations by Hugo van der
Goes. The following rooms do nothing to counter my lack of enthusiasm for
post-Memling Flemish stuff. Some ordinary Breughels and then (sigh) the
statutory excess of Rubens, alleviated only by a trio of fine and
characterful van Dyke biggies. The many Dutch rooms that followed lacked
arresting works, I thought. Even the Rembrandts, of which there are many,
went by in a blur, maybe because there were so many. And then suddenly a
room of Canaletto, Guardi and Tiepolo. After which it's backwards through
the Italian centuries. A highlight here was a Tintoretto Madonna and
Child with Saints Luke and Mark. Then a highly linger-worthy room with
Bellinis, a Cima and a pair of Carpaccio goodies, including the weird
Lamentation over the dead Christ. A fine large Crivelli Enthroned
Madonna and Saints dominates the next room, which has some Vivarini
panels too. The original Filippo Lippi Adoration in the Forest from
the Medici palace chapel is in the next room, with a Piero dei Pollaiuolo
Annunciation that's both perspective-dominated and very jazzy. So
into the last room, which has a Giotto panel from Ognissanti in Florence
and a lovely early Gentile da Fabriano. Lunch in the museum's cafe was
tomato ravioli in a pesto sauce with a weissbier. Some postcards and books
were bought and a puzzlement engendered that I could have missed the two
Vermeers. (I later checked to see if they might have been on loan, but
no.)
Then I walked back to the hotel, to find a bag containing a cake from J
hanging from my door handle. It was star-shaped and dark and had been
labelled as apple and cinnamon, but to me it tasted like a chocolate
sponge. Disappointing. A stroll up to the Nikolaivertel in the evening and
and then back to Amici, the restaurant from our first evening, for the cream of tomato
again, for me, and some tongue-tingling penne al arrabbiata.
Wednesday 28th October
To the Alte Nationalgalerie
this morning, which is devoted to art of the 19th Century, mostly for
their Caspar David Friedrich goodies, but also for Böcklin and, as it
turned out, to fall for new names Carl Spitzweg (for his Venetian street
view and use of odd thin portrait format canvases) and Carl Blechen (for
being like Friedrich, but less darkly). There are three floors of
galleries which progress roughly chronologically from the top. The room
devoted to Friedrich gets added to my list of the best gallery rooms of
the year, with several old faves, a new fave, and one old fave
inexplicably missing, except as a postcard. Lots of great stuff in other
rooms too, also including a room of French Impressionists, if you like that
sort of thing. My second best was the room devoted to Schinkel's
architecture-dominated paintings. Constable, Corbet and Menzel dominate
the less-interesting ground floor, but there's a Hammershoi and some weird
symbolists in one room too. A sore lack of catalogues for sale in English
somewhat dulled our pleasure but you can't, as has been said before, have
everything. The exhibition and viewing platform devoted to the new
Humboldt rebuilding had been explored by Jane yesterday. She sponsored a
brick then and, rightly, thought I'd be interested and need to visit too,
chat with the friendly chap explaining the project next to the spiffy model of
the area and take photos from the viewing terraces.
An evening trip to KaDaWe in search of unusual chocolate, marzipan and
redbush tea flavourings. The latter not found, except for a somewhat
expensive tin flavoured with almond. A somewhat tortuous train journey there made a
longish walk back attractive. To Amici for a final bowl of their
excellent cream of tomato, which I had to return as it was not hot. The
first time time I've ever sent something back in a restaurant! The
replacement was well up to scratch, as was the spaghetti al pomodoro.
Thursday 29th October
A last breakfast at Brotzeit
was followed by a comfortably unfull bus to the airport, a long queue at
BA check-in due to only one desk being open, initially, and a very short
wait in the lounge, in the company of Channel 4 News' Lindsey Hilsum,
which was worrying as she usually reports from more war-torn zones.
Home safe and swiftly though, in time for a late lunch even.
Final impressions - Berlin is an oddly uncrowded city, where seats seem
always to be had on buses and trains and where queues and oppressive
crowds are almost unknown. We vow to leave many less than seven years
until our next visit. And to try not to stay in a hotel that charges more
for one breakfast than two dinners, and which charges for wifi at all. |
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